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Glenkinchie has long been one of Diageo’s key single malts, rising to prominence as part of the Classic Malts range, and now remains one of the two lowland distilleries that have remained in production while others have closed, and now new ones have opened. We’ve not often seen a whisky from the distillery in the Special Releases, with only three previous bottlings, and none since 2016. As a lighter and more floral whisky, it doesn’t always get the spotlight that it deserves, and I’m pleased to see it pop up on the list here.

This elegant dram is inspired by the delicacy of Chinese porcelain, and is matured in refill casks – American and European oak barrels and butts – laid down at the distillery in its cool warehouses. Stuart Morrison used to look after Glenkinchie’s whiskies and has been keeping on eye on these casks for years, waiting for them to be ready. They’ve finally hit their mark, and the result is my favourite whisky of the line up.

Nose: Star fruit and white flowers. Crunchy apples, polished oak and floral perfume, backed up by old-fashioned sweetshop notes and a touch of white chocolate (the good stuff).

Palate: Hugely floral – the classic, old-fashioned Lowland style. Fresh and sweet apples, a touch of waxiness and wax polish, and well-integrated, well-structured oak.

Finish: Meadow flowers, freshly mown grass and gentle sweetness.