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Mortlach has become the meaty heart of the Special Releases range. Meatiness is very much the connective element here, looking eastwards to Japan and the country’s obsession with umami – the mysterious fifth, savoury taste. This release takes the rich Speyside spirit and combines it not only with ex-Pinot Noir red wine casks, but also ex-Japanese whisky casks from Kanosuke distillery in the south of Japan.

As a Japanophile and a big fan of Kanosuke (and the shochus that owners Komasa Jyozo make at their other distillery down the road – ask me about their crazy four-lyne-armed horizontal pot still if you find me in the pub) this is the whisky I was most looking forward to trying.

Nose: Sesame crackers, sultanas and cream to start. Sour Japanese plums, singed toffee, soft peppery notes and a gentle, almost incense-like muskiness.

Palate: Rich and creamy in texture, with the toffee from the nose leading into pear, crunchy spun sugar and cocoa. Drying oakiness is balanced by juicy apple sauce and black pepper, while candied fruit develops.

Finish: White chocolate and dark spice. Stewed apple and damp oak.